Coronavirus: Hendersons in Edinburgh forced to close by lockdown

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Myra in Henderson's kitchenImage source, George Weir
Image caption,

Cook, Myra, tending the many pots in Hendersons kitchen back in the 1960s

The UK's longest-running vegetarian restaurant is among businesses across Scotland which will not be reopening their doors as lockdown restrictions are lifted.

Hendersons in Edinburgh announced earlier this week the family-run business, which began life as a farm shop in 1962, had gone into liquidation.

Owner Catherine Home, whose mother Janet was the pioneering influence behind Scotland's first vegetarian café, told the BBC she is devastated at not being able to keep the family's legacy alive.

Mrs Home, who is 70 and lives in North Berwick, said she knew from week one of the lockdown that her mother's business was in serious trouble.

She said: "We had a poor winter and my daughter had moved back from London as the third generation to run the business and we had taken on a couple of key people to help us regenerate but then Covid hit and that was it.

"I was really upset. I feel a real responsibility to look after our mother's legacy, I'm very committed to that, but we were just too deep in debt.

"I am devastated that this has happened. I was 11 when my mother opened her first restaurant and I would go there after school, it was a big part of my life."

Image source, Catherine Home
Image caption,

Hendersons on Hanover Street became an Edinburgh institution

Mrs Home said what her mother had achieved with the business had been "amazing" and she had helped make people more aware of what they were eating and why it was important.

She added: "I really wanted to keep my mother's legacy going, I feel so sad that I have not been able to."

From farm shop to basement restaurant

It was in the 1930s that Janet Henderson became very aware that diet was so important, after being introduced to vegetarianism by an aunt in Vienna.

Mrs Home, who is the sixth of seven children, said: "My mother was part of a Glaswegian family whose architect father died when she was seven so she was brought up by her mother. She went to visit her aunt Annie and uncle Bobby Whitehead in Vienna when she was 20.

"Her aunt was a vegetarian and it was while she was living there she realised her health was much better. It was a positive journey for her with a positive outcome."

Image source, Catherine Home
Image caption,

Janet with her husband James, who was known as Mac

When Janet returned she married James, a farmer who was known as Mac, and she began selling organic produce to wholefood shops from her four-acre vegetable garden on the family farm in East Lothian.

The Hendersons Farm Shop opened at 94 Hanover Street in Edinburgh in 1962 and then in April 1963 Janet opened up Henderson's Salad Table, a vegetarian restaurant in the basement of the shop.

When it first opened the menu offered baked potatoes, cauliflower cheese, vegetable bakes and salads - with puddings including fruit gateaux, trifle, chocolate mousse and brandy snaps with cream and ginger.

More recently diners could opt for vegetarian haggis, lasagnes and curries - and the desserts had gone vegan.

'A real pioneer'

Image source, Catherine Home
Image caption,

Janet Henderson first became interested in vegetarianism after a stay with family in Vienna in the 1930s

Vegetarianism and veganism were virtually unheard of back in the 1960s, so Janet would never advertise the business like that so as not to discourage customers.

Mrs Home said: "Once people were inside they would ask where the meat was but then realise the food looked appetising and stay."

She also served her own freshly baked bread from a bakery she opened up in Canonmills when she could not find any bread she felt was good enough for her restaurant.

Bread was being baked during the night and fresh vegetarian food was being made during the day for the restaurant.

"My mother was a real pioneer and it is thanks to her there are now vegetarian options in restaurants," said Mrs Home.

In 1968, the Hendersons brand expanded with a further outlet opening on Thistle Street in Edinburgh.

In 2015, this became Hendersons 100% vegan restaurant and the same year the family also opened up their newest venture, Hendersons Holyrood.

Image source, Catherine Home
Image caption,

Catherine Home in her garden in East Lothian

Mrs Home confirmed that all three ventures would not be reopening after the lockdown.

She said: "I think vegetarian and health food is key, you are what you eat and therefore diet is very important.

"People didn't know that back in the 60s, it was when my mother made a big success of her business that people started to realise.

"I feel very blessed by the way I was brought up and taught about diet and it was all thanks to my mother.

"She was very liberal and loved people. She was also very hard working and I will think of her and her legacy very fondly."