Pride: Wales' oldest gay bar remains amid developing city

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GIOLDENCROSS

Among Cardiff city centre's high rise buildings, offices, flats and numerous construction projects stands Wales' oldest gay bar.

There used to be over a dozen pubs in this small corner of the capital, but today the Grade II-listed Golden Cross, a stone's throw from St David's 2 Shopping Centre, is the only one still standing.

From its opening as the Shields and Newcastle Tavern in the mid-19th Century, to its status as a watering hole for the city's LGBT population for the past 24 years, this eye-catching pub has a fascinating history.

As Pride Cymru draws to a close, here's a brief history of Wales' oldest gay bar.

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The Golden Cross sits in one of the most developed areas of the city

The pub has a friendly atmosphere in a regenerated part of Cardiff, but this was historically an area many people avoided due to its reputation for thievery, violence and prostitution.

In time, the bad reputation of the area improved and by the 20th Century the local pubs were frequented by labourers and dock workers.

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Across the road from the Golden Cross, the Radison Blue hotel was opened in 2009

In 1846, the Shields and Newcastle Tavern opened on the site.

In 1855 it was renamed the Castle Inn, but in 1863 it changed again to its present name, The Golden Cross.

However, the pub's present building dates from the turn of the 20th Century.

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The pub is currently draped with a large LGBT flag to show support for Pride Cymru

Bar manager Cody Jones said: "The Golden Cross has the most spectacular pub interior in all of Wales.

"It was built in 1903 with excellent S A Brain & Co Ltd lettering on its colourful exterior, which gives you an indication of what to expect inside."

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The pub was under threat of demolition in 1978

According to Cody the pub's very existence was in danger around 45 years ago.

"In 1978 it was under threat of demolition for road widening but a campaign saved it and then Brains carried out a restoration, reopening the pub in 1986."

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The classic Craven Dunnill tiles on show at the main bar.

The interior of the pub has kept most of the original features, with the owners and staff putting importance on maintaining the pub's character.

"On entering you will see some spectacular Craven Dunnill decorative tilework on the walls of the main public bar in various shades of brown and green on the dado, and yellow and green above, topped off with a colourful floral pattern frieze above.

"The tiles also run up the side of the open staircase."

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The original tiles also that run up the wall on the staircase

"The long L-shaped counter is one of only 14 remaining ceramic bar counters left in the whole of the UK and features grotesques on the frontage and is the reason for its inclusion on the National Inventory.

"There is another equally impressive counter in Wales at the Waterloo, Newport."

He adds: "There are also two hand-painted pictorial panels. The large one in the public bar is of Cardiff Castle in 1903.

"In the left-hand room is a hand-painted pictorial tile painting of the Old Town Hall in 1863. It was one of two completed by Craven Dunnill of Jackfield, Shropshire for the opening of the pub in 1903.

"There is also a tiled panel of the Brains Old Brewery in St Mary Street, Cardiff in around 1890 in the left-hand lobby but this dates probably from the reopening in 1986."

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The hand-painted pictorial panel of Cardiff Castle at the public bar

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A depiction of the old Brains Brewery on St Mary's St in Victorian times, seen on the wall towards the back of the pub

The Golden Cross officially became a gay bar 24 years ago, and over the years Cardiff has seen its LGBT pub scene grow, with many other establishments opening.

"Charles street had the likes of Exit and Eagle Bar" explained Cody, "but then you had the Kings Cross on the corner of chippy lane too."

Nowadays, Cardiff's gay pubs are more spread out across the city, with Pulse on Churchill Way being a popular spot.

"Yes, they are all central to Cardiff but spread out so there's one basically in every corner," Cody added.

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The original windows are still in place, decorated with LGBT flags to celebrate the Pride festival in Cardiff

When asked if the Golden Cross had experienced anti-LGBT prejudice, Cody said such behaviour had thankfully been rare.

"We have had conflicts with our gender fluid toilets with people disagreeing, saying that it should be just man or woman, but not any major issues. Everyone is very friendly and accommodating to anyone who comes in."

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The parlour behind the main public bar with more decorated tile works.

At the back of the pub there is a two-tier beer garden where you are reminded of the hustle and bustle of its central location.

In an age where big chain pubs are commonplace and original, historic venues are becoming scarcer, the Golden Cross remains defiantly present at the centre of a city undergoing great change.

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Customers are reminded of the pub's central location by sitting in the beer garden