How climate change helps fuel Welsh wine's success

Vineyards in Wales have been flourishing in recent years

A century-and-a-half after the Marquess of Bute planted the UK's first commercial vineyard, drinkers are raising a glass to Welsh wine once again.

The Castell Coch venture on Cardiff's outskirts had mixed success, finally becoming unviable due to World War One.

Averaging about 3,000 bottles a year, it is unlikely the project broke even.

But now there are about 40 vineyards, many of them with awards, and climate change is one reason for their success.

Economics and a better understanding of habitat have also played their part.

• Will a new name give Wales' sparkling wine cheers?

• How sheep wool is helping vineyard make better wine

• The farmers supplying wool for award-winning wine

Award-winning grower Woody Lennard, of Montgomery Vineyard in Powys farms five acres.

This table at the Bute family-owned Cardiff Castle was designed to accommodate a fully fruiting grapevine

He said: "We have several natural advantages. We're 900ft (274m) above sea level, on a south-facing 32 degree slope, and with all of the nutrients of a glacial valley.

"So that said there's no reason why people couldn't have been growing wine here hundreds of years before us."

Mr Lennard sources hardier vines from France and Germany, pruning them every winter.

"What we've done differently is think more closely about the varieties we're growing, and how we look after them," he said.

Robb Merchant, of White Castle Vineyard, in Abergavenny, Monmouthshire, has been using varieties never before seen in Wales, in particular red wines.

The UK's first vineyard was at Castell Coch on the outskirts of Cardiff

After 14 years, he's just picked up the gold medal from the Wine GB awards for his pinot noir précoce.

Mr Merchant has no doubt climate change is having an effect.

"The ideal latitude for red wines is 50 degrees north and 50 degrees south of the equator.

"That band is growing 15km (9.3 miles) both north and south every year, so if you look at that we're right in it now, the range is at 52 degrees each way.

"You only have to look at our 2018 vintage, where a record wet winter with the Beast From the East was followed by a record warm summer.

"Our yield jumped from eight tonnes to 16.5 tonnes."

Mr Merchant and Mr Lennard say their grapes are now juicier and more sugary. But at £20-£30 a bottle Welsh wine remains pricey.

Robb Merchant has no doubt climate change is affecting the wines of Wales

Christie Hayes, acting sommelier at the Michelin-starred Beach House in Gower, said: "Wales can never compete with supermarket wine on price, there simply isn't the yield for us to fight over.

"But we can - and we are - fighting on the quality front.

"It might take me a little while to suggest Welsh wine to a customer at the table, but I promise you, once they've had one they usually have a second."

Ms Hayes agreed climate change was part of the reason for the success of Welsh wine.

She said: "We're in a sweet spot at the moment, Wales is becoming the place to grow wine, but if the climate carries on as it is, then in 40, 50 years time that sweet spot will have moved away from us to Scandinavia."

"Most Michelin chefs want products from as close to their restaurants as possible, but we can also trade on the ethics.

"Welsh wine has fewer food miles, lower carbon footprint, and is all-round better for our world."

• BINGE-WORTHY BOX SETS: Everyone is talking about these award-winning dramas...

• WYNNE'S WELSH 70S: Nostalgia and footage from Wynne Evans' favourite decade