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24 February 2012
Last updated at
10:08
In pictures: Real Mexican cuisine
The San Juan Market is a mecca for chefs and gourmands, right in the heart of Mexico City's historic centre. The exotic ingredients include ant eggs, chocolate with cinnamon and fresh coffee from the states of Chiapas and Veracruz in the south and east of the country. (All images by Daniel Aguilar, words by Ignacio de los Reyes)
Chilli is not only an ingredient, it's part of the Mexican culture. Almost every restaurant in Mexico serves at least three different kind of chilli sauces, with rising levels of spiciness. There are endless varieties; Mexican children even eat sweets covered with chilli powder.
Mexicans love their 'antojitos' or appetisers. Peanuts covered with chilli, jalapenos or roasted onions are among the favourites in Mexico. But they also love dried fish with spicy seasoning, a staple at bars. An ice-cold beer is the perfect accompaniment.
Cactus plants are a common sight across Mexico, and they provide ingredients for the national cuisine, too. Nopales are the most important of them. They are served - with the spines removed, obviously - in tacos, in salads and as a side dish with meat.
Grasshoppers are fried and salted and can be served in tacos, but they are also used to prepare salsas. Some Mexicans also enjoy eating them as an appetiser.
Insects have been part of the Mexican diet for centuries. Ant eggs (escamoles) and mosquito eggs are highly prized during Easter celebrations. The eggs are regarded as a delicacy and called 'insect caviar' by some.
Avocados, mangoes and many other exotic fruits can be found at markets like San Juan. Thanks to the tropical climate, Mexicans can eat fresh local fruit year-round. Street vendors crowd the corners of every town, selling refreshing fruit cocktails seasoned with salt, fruit and chilli for less than 15 pesos ($1.20).
Food is a matter of national pride and identity in Mexico, with tacos particularly popular. Street taco stalls are crowded all day long, and it's easy to find them across big cities and towns, in rich and poor areas, residential zones or financial districts.
Tacos al pastor (meaning the shepherd's tacos) are a popular meat tortilla, made with marinated pork, pineapple and coriander, as is carnitas (pictured), another pork-filled favourite. The fillings must always be seasoned with at least one kind of salsa, made with green or red chillis, tamarind and fried smashed beans.
Enrique Olvera is chef and owner of Mexico City's Pujol, included on the last San Pellegrino list of the finest restaurants in the world. He's the symbol of a new wave of Mexicans using their grandmothers’ cookbooks, adapting old recipes for modern times.
'Hidden egg' is one of the favourite dishes at Pujol's - tortilla filled with tomato sauce, grasshoppers, coriander and a boiled egg. All of the ingredients can be found at local markets.
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