Into Qatar

Khalfan’s first serious taste of playing on the global stage came at the 1981 Fifa World Youth Championship – which later became the Fifa Under-20 World Cup. It remains one of the high points in Qatar’s football history as the unfancied Arabs made it all the way to the final in Australia.

They came second in the group and gained a famous victory when they defeated Brazil 3-2 in the quarter-finals courtesy of Khalid Salman’s stunning hat-trick.

An England team featuring a frontline of Danny Wallace and Neil Webb, who would both later play for Manchester United, were beaten 2-1 in the semi-finals. Qatar were eventually thrashed 4-0 by West Germany in the final.

At senior level, the story of Qatari football in those early years was often one of heartbreaking near misses. They came second in both the 1981 Military Cup and the 1984 Gulf Cup, beaten on penalties by Iraq, and went on to compete at the Olympic Games in the United States that year too.

Though the latter was an incredible experience for Khalfan and his team-mates, it was a less successful venture on the pitch. Despite gaining a creditable point against a French side managed by Henri Michel (who would go on to guide his country to third place at the World Cup two years later), they finished bottom of the group following defeats by Chile and Norway.

However, it is the failure to qualify for the 1990 World Cup which still fills Khalfan with deep regret, as he looks down and shakes his head.

Qatar topped the group in the first round of qualification but missed out by a solitary point in the final round as South Korea and Gulf rivals the United Arab Emirates snatched the two places to advance to Italy.

Khalfan reflects on what could have been.

“We went into that with excitement and a lot of passion but we were not very disciplined,” he says.

“There was a lot of stress and tension and there was a lot of pressure on some of the players.

“It was a very strange experience because we were literally half a step away from the World Cup. We learned a very important lesson - in football you always need to give the proper effort and respect the opponent.

“You should not count your chickens before they have hatched. Unfortunately we made all of these mistakes and it cost us qualification.”

Sitting with his wife and children around the television in 2010, Khalfan briefly hoped his son might succeed where he failed by representing Qatar at the World Cup in 2022, with the team guaranteed qualification for the first time as hosts.

Injury to Ibrahim meant that would not happen but Khalfan’s own disappointments quickly became a thing of the past, with a new focus on the future.

“When the card was initially held up by Sepp Blatter, the name on it looked quite long as though it read ‘United States of America’. But when he lifted it out fully it said ‘Qatar’. It was a moment of pure joy.”

As we leave, Khalfan stops and says, “Shukran jazeelan (thank you). I have not been asked these questions about my career before. But do you know what my nickname was for the national team?

“I was known as ‘The Bazooka’ for a famous goal I scored,” before pulling out his phone and showing me the video of the long-range strike.

Doha will be the focal point of the World Cup, with two stadiums in the city itself and six others separated by a maximum radius of 46 miles.

But to unearth the earliest origins of football in Qatar you have to travel to the western city of Dukhan, where the country’s oil riches were first discovered in 1939. Though extraction was delayed by World War II, the presence of those natural reserves proved the catalyst for economic growth.

It was also indirectly responsible for the development of football in the country, since in 1940 expat workers in the industry brought the game with them. Leisurely kickabouts regularly took place between those expats and locals.

In 1950, Al Najah - the first Qatari football team – were founded and would later go on to change their name to Al Ahli. Another of Ibrahim Khalfan’s sons, Nasser, currently plays for them.

The journey out of Doha, the international gateway to the country, towards Dukhan takes you down Salwa Road, the main motorway which leads to the border with Saudi Arabia.

“The government has spent a lot of money to connect the country together,” says local driver Sami. “As soon as the bid was won they started the systems for the World Cup, building the stadiums, hotels and metro.

“You see this Salwa Road? It started off as a two-lane highway but in parts it now stretches to seven lanes on each side. It is so easy to get around.”

The route is mainly desert and you can travel for miles before seeing any sort of civilisation.

Sami is a keen amateur photographer and points out the best spots to stop and stargaze at night. He travels here often to meet up with friends, drink tea and take pictures.

As we approach our destination, ‘Welcome to Dukhan’ is emblazoned on a sign. Because this area we have now entered is controlled by the state, including the vast oilfield run by QatarEnergy, another sign in red writing reads ‘photography and videos are strictly forbidden in this area’.

The rest of the place continues to be a barren desert. There are no football pitches in sight. Though a short distance, it feels a long way away from the World Cup epicentre of Doha.

Sami turns off the main road and heads across the unmarked, bumpy desert, the suspension clanking against large rocks which propel the vehicle into the air.

The hairy one mile ride brings us to the home of environmental farmer Ali Taleb al Henzab, who has a living area the size of a caravan. There is a majlis (sitting room), with traditional floor-seated cushions, wooden tables, a patterned rug and a small television in the corner. Outside, there is some land for farming and a number of camels.

Al Henzab’s job is to protect the environment, nurturing seeds so they grow into trees, which are then uprooted and sold to be replanted in different parts of Qatar. Workers carry gallons of water to keep the plants replenished.

The sun is blazing and specks of sand catch my face and lips in the breeze.

It is a relief from the heat when Al Henzab invites us inside his modest dwelling, where a spread of fruit, cakes and fresh, moist dates have been laid out.

“Drink, drink,” he says, pointing to a bowl of fresh milk which has arrived directly from the camel outside.

The coating of froth on top provides protection from any insects, while the milk itself is lukewarm and thicker to drink than regular milk.

Al Henzab explains that from where we are, the football pitches are towards the north of Dukhan, so I ask if the World Cup is still of significance even to those living in the desert?

“It is important for Qatar locals, Arabs, foreigners and everyone here,” he says. “It will show our culture to different countries from all around the world. It is exciting and something to be proud of for everyone.

“I’d be honoured for people to come and see my plantation when they come for the World Cup. I would welcome them with open arms and hope to give the real image about the environment and sport.

“My grandad had a Bedouin lifestyle, living in the desert. But they balanced that with going to the city to study as well. Now there are very few people who stay in the desert but my job is a small continuation of what my ancestors did.”

With football becoming of increasing interest among youth, official matches started being organised and the first football tournament held in Qatar was in 1951 when Dukhan overcame opposition from a number of Doha-based clubs to win the Izzadeen Cup.

Looking around, there is no indication that this unlikely area is where football first took hold in Qatar and little sign of the global event about to descend on the country.

As we head back east, a signpost shows it is about 60km (nearly 40 miles) towards the coastal municipality of Abu Samra, where Roberto Martinez’s Belgium are based for the tournament.

And while evidence of football is rare in Dukhan, you do not have to travel far to see how a World Cup can transform a country’s infrastructure.

Qatar’s authorities have been accused of sportswashing - using a major international event to project a positive image of a country and gain international status and credibility.

Tournament organisers have promised openness and inclusivity, yet the country adheres firmly to its Islamic traditions and principles.

How does Sheikh Haitham reconcile these two apparently contrasting world views?

“This mosque is open to everyone. We won’t ask them about their nationality, beliefs or religion. Our aim is to introduce our faith to the guests of this country,” he explains.

“We want visitors to understand and appreciate that we, as Muslim individuals, as a community, as a country, are by and large a peace-loving people.

“We are not terrorists who carry weapons and kill people. Some in western and European countries perceive us as only being about violence and murder but our religion is about peace. Islam means submission to God and to be peaceful in your ways and means.

“The whole being of the Prophet Muhammad was about peace and not inflicting harm on anyone. This is the message Qatar wants to spread to the world. We follow the guidance of Allah by praying, fasting and giving to charity according to our religion.

“Our message is one of peace. I have urged my fellow imams to propagate this message.”

Homosexuality is, however, illegal in the Muslim country and punishable by up to seven years in prison or a large fine, or in some cases, death.

Last month, British LGBT rights campaigner Peter Tatchell was “arrested and detained” by officials and later released after staging a protest in Qatar, though the government said claims of an arrest were “completely false”.

LGBT organisations engaging with Fifa over the tournament have said "progress has been slow" and "issues of concern" remain.

When asked whether visiting fans should respect the cultures and customs of Qatar, Sheikh Haitham gave an answer that many underline as a key concern at this World Cup.

“We should not treat all people the same,” he says. “This is enshrined in the Sharia [laws] of Islam and was taught by the Prophet Muhammad.

“Let me give you one example from his life. The Prophet was the most-loved and most-respected person on Earth in the eyes of his companions. He was sitting in his mosque when a Bedouin man - known to be rough, tough and rude - entered and without any respect said ‘Muhammad! Give me your money which God has given you. It does not belong to your father or mother’.

“He got hold of the Prophet’s collar and pulled him with force and the companions saw a mark on the neck. Even with this treatment he didn’t reciprocate the behaviour. He said to the companions, ‘don’t harm him, take him to the treasure, let him take what he wants’.

“This tells us the Prophet Muhammad didn’t deal with a tit-for-tat attitude and treated him with his own ethics and morals. The Quran tells us on many occasions that ‘misdeeds do not match good deeds’. When someone does something wrong, respond by doing something right. This is the attitude we should all have.”

In March, England manager Gareth Southgate said it is “a great shame” that some Three Lions fans won’t travel to the World Cup “because they feel threatened”, while captain Harry Kane said he wants to “shine a light” on issues around Qatar.

Wales have qualified for the World Cup for the first time since 1958 but some of the national team’s staff will not travel to the tournament because of Qatar’s stance on gay rights.

Last month, Australia released a collective statement against Qatar’s human rights record, becoming the first World Cup team to do so.

The video message criticised the hosts’ treatment of migrant workers and LGBT people.

Take a stroll across Oxygen Park, described as the “green lung” of Education City, and you arrive at the Qatar Foundation student centre.

I am here on an important day for the organisation because a special guest is in attendance – the World Cup trophy.

Back in 2010 after being announced as hosts in Zurich, Qatar’s Emir Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa Al-Thani famously held the trophy aloft with a grin, stating: “We acknowledge there is a lot of work for us to do, but we also stand by our promise that we will deliver.”

Over a decade on, hundreds of animated men, women and children are queuing up to get their photo taken with the famous golden prize, though touching it is strictly out of bounds and two heavy-set security guards make sure of this.

Fan merchandise such as flags, footballs, keyrings and stickers are being handed out while there is a penalty shootout competition in one corner of the auditorium.

Overhead, the official World Cup soundtrack “Hayya Hayya” - which means to ‘hurry up’ or ‘arrive’ – is booming on a loop from the speakers so loudly you can barely hear yourself think.

After all the planning and conjecture, Qatar’s time has finally arrived.

Shockwaves had reverberated around the world when they defeated bids from South Korea, Japan, Australia and the United States to win the right to host the 2022 World Cup.

Then came the claims and counterclaims.

Mohamed Bin Hammam was cleared of attempted bribery in the awarding of the tournament, but later banned for life by Fifa for “conflicts of interest” while he was president of the Asian Football Confederation.

In 2014, a report by Fifa independent ethics investigator Michael Garcia cleared Qatar of corruption charges - in effect ending talks of a re-vote - and earlier this year, former Uefa president Michel Platini and ex-Fifa president Sepp Blatter were found not guilty following a fraud trial.

From the outset, Qatar has continually denied any allegations of wrongdoing. However, it is impossible to escape the fact that most of the Fifa executive committee members involved during the bid have since been banned or discredited from football.

Yousef Ayman, a 23-year-old Qatari defender, will soon be seeing some of his team-mates playing at a World Cup, something that has eluded their predecessors, Khalfan included.

We have agreed to meet at the Pearl, a modern man-made island development of 4m square metres of reclaimed land where expats often choose to live.

En route you pass West Bay, where many of the chain hotels are located and where thousands of fans will be staying during the tournament.

At one of the Pearl’s fashionable restaurants - the place to be for some celeb-spotting and where steak and chips with the special house sauce is the only item on the menu - I meet Ayman to discuss the state of football in Qatar in 2022.

Doha-based Al-Sadd, managed by Juanma Lillo - Pep Guardiola’s former assistant at Manchester City - are the country’s current champions and record 16-time winners of the domestic league.

The competition has featured a long list of star names who accepted big-money offers towards the end of their careers, including the likes of Guardiola, Gabriel Batistuta, Raul, Marcel Desailly and Wesley Sneijder.

“There is nothing like Europe or South America but the football in Qatar has improved a lot in the past few years,” says Ayman, who missed out on winning the Emir Cup last season as he was on loan at Qatar Sports Club, playing alongside Spanish World Cup winner Javi Martinez.

“The facilities and the levels of the teams are better than some places in Europe and it will be even better after the World Cup.

That is quite a claim but while at international level it is certainly true to say improvements have been made - and quickly - it is not quite the same story at club level with matches in the 12-team Qatar Stars League being played in front of a handful of spectators in venues ranging from 5,000 to 40,000.

Even World Cup venues, the 40,700-capacity Ahmed bin Ali Stadium and 40,000 Al Janoub Stadium, which will be packed out during the tournament are virtually empty when hosting domestic games during the regular season.

Ayman says: “People watch La Liga and Premier League the most here but for me the Premier League is the best one.”

Since being formed in 1970, the national team have enjoyed trophy success, winning the Asian Cup in 2019 to add to their Gulf Cup triumphs of 1992, 2004 and 2014.

Last year, they were invited to participate in the Concacaf Gold Cup, where they impressed by topping their group and reaching the semi-finals, but were narrowly beaten by eventual winners the USA.

Ayman’s club team-mate and captain Almoez Ali, named player of the tournament and top scorer in that Asian Cup triumph, and Al Sadd’s Akram Afif are the national side’s two star players.

“There is no pressure on them, we are in it together,” says Ayman. “It is not about individuals, it is a team. They just have to show themselves without any pressure.”

Qatar have been drawn in a group alongside three-time finalists the Netherlands, Africa Cup of Nations holders Senegal and Ecuador.

Their opening match against the South Americans takes place on Sunday, 20 November at 7pm local time, for peak TV viewing, and on paper looks to be their most winnable game.

The hope from supporters is that a victory in their first fixture will boost confidence heading into the next two games, but the reality is they are not expected to reach the knockout stages.

For Qatar, this World Cup is - and has been from the outset - about so much more than just the football.

Head about nine miles south-west of Doha and you reach the Industrial Area, a world away from the riches and luxuries of the main city.

An estimated 30,000 migrant labourers have been used in Qatar to work on World Cup projects. Many of those who have built the roads, hotels and stadiums have endured difficult living conditions here.

In 2016 Amnesty International accused the Qatari authorities of subjecting workers to forced labour, something the country’s government says it has acted on to ensure reform and to bring about “significant progress”.

In February 2021, the Guardian said 6,500 migrant workers from India, Pakistan, Nepal, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka had died in Qatar since it won its World Cup bid.

The number is based on figures provided by the countries' embassies in Qatar.

However, the Qatar government said the total was misleading, because not all the deaths recorded were of people working on World Cup-related projects.

The government said its accident records showed that between 2014 and 2020, there were 37 deaths among labourers at World Cup stadium construction sites, only three of which were "work related".

The Industrial Area was also home to a refugee camp used by about 70,000 Afghanistan nationals who passed through Qatar on special visas last year to escape the Taliban after the group took control of their country.

A nursery space was built overnight by Generation Amazing (GA) where parents were able to deal with paperwork relating to immigration while daily activities such as Arabic lessons and art workshops kept the children occupied.

Former England captain David Beckham, who is a Qatar 2022 ambassador, and heads of state have been some of the interested visitors to the compound.

The GA programme was devised by the Qatari government, which they describe as the human and social legacy programme for the World Cup.

They had a target of reaching one million beneficiaries before the start of the World Cup, encompassing more than 30 countries including Brazil, India, Jordan, Lebanon and Syria.

GA programme director Nasser Al-Khori explains: “When we submitted the bid, a big portion of the presentation was around legacy. There was a lot of research done around previous countries that hosted World Cups.

“There was a lot of criticism and past countries didn’t take advantage of leaving long-lasting legacies. Qatar wanted to do it differently and that is why we created the legacy programme.”

Following all the controversies, a successful World Cup is crucial to the reputation of Qatar on the world stage in the eyes of their leaders.

Around 1.2m visitors are expected in the country during the tournament, which will add up to £14.7bn to the economy.

Neighbouring Saudi Arabia could see an increase in Muslim pilgrims, while shuttle flights from Dubai and hotels in Kuwait and Bahrain have also been booked by ‘day-trippers’, adding to the business and tourism sector in the region.

Qatar has spent millions on new resorts, museums and art galleries as it looks to expand its tourism hub.

Hosting a major sporting event is nothing new to the country, having previously held the Fifa Club World Cup and an F1 Grand Prix for the first time last year, while annual tournaments from the ATP/WTA tennis, European Tour golf and Diamond League athletics also take place there.

So what plans are being put in place for the future once the World Cup circus rolls out of town?

“Qatar is booming in terms of sports,” says Dr Atef Maamri, Head of Sport at Qatar University. “There is a big health and sporting orientation from communities.” The country is “not suffering” from obesity or chronic diseases, he claims.

The impressive 2,000 acre university campus is home to about 16,000 male and female students - 2,000 of which are involved in the physical education and sports sciences zone.

“Change is coming from the roots,” says Maamri. “We will have specialists from the industry which will be able to manage sports facilities and lead sporting institutions. The graduates will have a deep knowledge and knowhow about the sector. Qatar University is a good example of how important sports education is.”

But not enough is being done in the country as a whole, according to Mustafa Qadri, the CEO of human rights charity Equidem who communicate with Qatari migrant workers on a daily basis.

“The reality with Qatar is that its image has not improved,” says Qadri. “If anything, there is more awareness than before about how bad the human rights situation is in the country.

“There is an opportunity for them to do the right thing by working with the international community and human rights organisations to address these issues as opposed to trying to suppress criticism and pretend having formal reforms is enough.”

In August, around 60 workers were deported from the country for protesting about unpaid wages, with some reportedly not paid for seven months.

The government said those who were deported had "breached security laws".

Qadri says around 20 to 30,000 more workers on temporary contracts will be flown in to Qatar for the World Cup but he has “major concerns”.

He says: “There are workers whose lives have improved over the last few years with better jobs, better living conditions and being paid on time to send money back to their families to improve their communities. But there are tens or hundreds of thousands of workers who are still suffering exploitation.

“Having spoken to thousands of workers over several years, they have a lot of pride that they are in a country where the World Cup is being held but there is a lot of sadness too that they won’t be able to enjoy it.

“I would like to see their legacy being that whatever their labour laws says, they are enforced. That workers are getting paid and have a job and life of dignity. When employers exploit them then they can organise collectively and do something about it and for it not to be a crime.

“And female workers should not be punished when they report any sort of harassment. Those are the changes we would like to see.

“The one thing we feel is really important is that as the world descends on Qatar, football teams, corporate sponsors, fans and media ask questions about what Qatar is going to do to address these issues.

And just 13 days before the start of the tournament, Blatter, the man who had pulled Qatar’s name out of an envelope all those years ago, said awarding the World Cup to Qatar was a "mistake".

As you approach West Bay, a huge neon sign next to the Sheraton – Doha’s oldest hotel – stands out. It reads, ‘Everything is going to be alright’.

After more than a decade of accusations and preparations, we are about to find out whether or not that is true.