Welsh wine blooms as climate brings 'opportunity and risk'

Gwen Davies planted her first vines in north Wales in 2009

North Wales may seem an unlikely region for wine making, but the number of vineyards there, and right across Wales, has increased over the last 20 years.

Gwen Davies and her husband Rhys planted their first vines in the Vale of Clwyd in Denbighshire in 2018.

"It's been a real adventure," said Gwen. "I was 40 the year we planted - it was a midlife crisis."

Both from a farming background, they have 8,000 vines suitable for northern climates and are expecting a "bumper crop" after the hot, dry summer.

Dr Kate Gannon, who has researched the impact of climate change on UK wine, said warming temperatures meant Wales had become "more suitable" for wine production, but warned of challenges ahead.

The Welsh wine sector remains small compared to its English neighbour and is made up of micro-producers, but it has been growing rapidly.

The Food Standards Agency Wales said 59 vineyards across the country were registered with them at the end of July.

"Vineyards are cropping up in parts of Wales where there is this micro-climate and we hope to raise awareness of the sector and spark an interest," said Gwen.

She said the relatively cool climate means Vale Vineyard's award-winning wine is "fruit forward" with "lots of different flavours coming out on the palate".

Robb and Nicola Merchant sold their first bottle of wine in 2012

Tourism is a major part of the business for many Welsh wine producers who offer tours and tasting events resulting in a large proportion of sales at the "cellar door".

In Abergavenny in Monmouthshire, Robb and Nicola Merchant were among the pioneers.

They planted 4,000 vines in 2009 when Robb said there were "only six" vineyards in Wales.

They now have 13,500 vines, have won major international wine awards and supply seven Michelin-starred restaurants across the UK.

"We just can't produce enough," said Robb. "But the thing for Welsh vineyards is to focus on quality - the provenance and integrity of the vine - and not get sucked into the English juggernaut."

Welsh wine makers are expecting a "bumper" harvest this year

Nicola said it had always been her dream to make wine and she loves tourists visiting the vineyard.

"What's not to like about the story of vineyards in Wales? People just say 'Wow, I didn't expect to see that'."

White Castle Vineyard grows 75% black grapes for red wine, which is surprising to many visitors.

"I didn't realise they could produce red in Wales," said Sarah, who was part of a tour group visiting from Herefordshire.

Welsh wine "wasn't on our radar" said Julian, another member of the group, adding "it very much will be now".

Sarah says she found the vineyard tour "fascinating"

But while the summer of 2025 has been a friendly one for wine producers across Wales, ongoing climate change does pose a threat to the sector.

The unpredictability of the weather is a major challenge, with 2024 a "disaster year" according to Robb because it was so wet.

It was the same for Gwen who "harvested next to no crop" that year.

"There's big peaks and troughs, and we've got to build resilience into the business," she said.

Dr Gannon said Welsh wine producers were "being really innovative" in how they managed climate risk and opportunities by exploring grape varieties and different production techniques.

But the pace of change could also make it difficult for vineyards to adapt because vines can have a limited tolerance for increasing temperatures.

There is also a window of opportunity for Welsh wine, she said, as Wales has moved to "a time of greater climate suitability for some varieties" while other wine growing regions of the world have become too hot.

"In 2023 global wine production was at its lowest level for 60 years at the same time that Welsh production continues to expand into these still wines and even red wines," Dr Gannon said.

While they are aware of the risks, Welsh wine producers are optimistic.

"Perhaps in the next 30 years the grape varieties which are suitable will change," said Gwen, "but in the short term I think we're just at that sweet spot".