Bars to barbed wire fencing in Seoul
North Korea has said it is ready to talk if UN sanctions against it are withdrawn and the US and South Korea put an end to joint military drills.
The conditions for dialogue were outlined in a statement from the North's National Defence Commission and carried on official news agency KCNA.
But South Korea's Foreign Ministry brushed off the North's demands, calling them "incomprehensible".
Lucy Williamson is taking a journey from Seoul towards the border and the demilitarized zone.