Devon surfer in Maui: 'Every day I wake up in heaven'

Super Swell Saturday and Adam Amin rides a monster at Jaws, described as "the most notorious spot on Maui"

Surfer Adam Amin says he is aiming to be the best big wave surfer in the world.

Mr Amin, 24, from Sidmouth in Devon, was in Hawaii where huge swells created perfect conditions in January.

He has been surfing the famous Jaws break off the island of Maui where he has been living on and off for the past five years.

"I am still as stoked [excited] as I was on the first day I caught my first wave," he said.

"I want to be the best big wave surfer in the world, hands down, and I'm so honoured to represent England."

In the mouth of the beast: Adam Amin drops in on a Jaws monster

Surf forecasting site Magic Seaweed describes Jaws as "the most notorious spot on Maui" and "a wave most surfers are extremely unlikely to ride".

In January a huge swell hit the island.

"It was absolutely enormous with waves going to 80ft (24m)," he said.

"They were calling it Super Swell Saturday, that was one of the biggest swells we have had in five or seven years," said Mr Amin.

He was surfing the massive waves by being towed into them behind a water scooter.

Adam Amin said he "could not ask for anything better"

"It was amazing to be out there with some of the best big wave surfers in the world."

Along with him were seasoned Hawaiian locals like Kai Lenny, Nathan Florence and Billy Kemper.

"I was pushing my own boundaries, I could not ask for anything better," said Mr Amin.

The big wave surfer said every day was "a blessing"

Mr Amin set off for the Hawaiian Islands five years ago after saving up enough money working as a lifeguard and repairing boards, to fulfil his dream of riding big waves.

Maui has become his base where he gets by thanks to building work and sponsors.

"I don't think I could be living a better life, every single day is a blessing," he said.

"Every single day I wake up in heaven here.

"Even if I'm working, roofing, building, I'm still in paradise and I know every day I work is another 10 days I'm going adventuring."

Adam Amin said he was "humbled" by where he was

When he first arrived in Maui he was broke, with just 10 dollars (£7) in his pocket.

"I had to survive, get a job, I was washing dishes in restaurants and just worked my way up.

"I am very humbled and appreciate where I am now and never take it for granted.

"It's been quite a journey."

The 24-year-old does yoga to prepare himself for riding big waves

Safety is a huge issue in such big waves and he wears an inflation vest which brings him to the surface after a wipe-out.

"It's stupid if anyone would not admit they were scared in big waves," he said.

"I do gym almost every day, yoga and mind conditioning and breath training."

Adam Amin learned to surf in Sidmouth on the south Devon coast

He admits that he still misses his home town of Sidmouth where he learned to surf.

"I absolutely love England," he said.

"It can be a little bit dreary with the weather but it's pretty beautiful.

"I miss how pretty it is, all the Jurassic cliffs and it's home.

That's where I started surfing, it's brown water compared to the clear water over here but it's still beautiful in its own special way."

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