Armagh: Tasting the Orchard County's zingy, crisp apples

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Armagh Bramley apples
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The Armagh Bramley is the county's most celebrated apple

With more than 4,000 acres of Armagh's countryside dedicated to growing apples, it's little wonder that it's known as the Orchard County.

It is thought the fruit has been grown there for more than 3,000 years.

The evolution of their locally produced cider is being championed at the annual food and cider weekend.

This year's event, which runs until Sunday, will have British cider experts like Bill Bradshaw and Gabe Cook in attendance.

They believe Armagh's offering is a match for British and French competition thanks to the Armagh Bramley, its most celebrated apple, which was granted protected geographical indication status in 2012.

"They are amazing here - it gives a more acid-driven or acid-led style of cider - really fresh," says Bill.

"It's the one that people start to use and build upon and that's what helps to give it its unique characteristic for the region.

"They're also growing some beautiful cider fruit, traditional British and French varieties that contain tannin, much like you would get from a grape, and they add a layer of complexity and balance out the cider."

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British cider experts Bill Bradshaw and Gabe Cook say the apples in Armagh are fantastic

Standing in an orchard with row upon row of apple trees, it's hard not to see connections with French vineyards.

That is something Gabe is keen to highlight.

"The thing to consider is that you make cider like you make a wine," he says.

"You don't brew cider, although they present more like a beer. You take fantastic varietals, each different in terms of its texture, aromatic nature.

"Bramley gives you really high acid, zingy, crisp and fresh.

"If you've a place that's great for growing apples like it is is here in Armagh and you've got very talented apple growers like you do, that gives you the opportunity to have a fantastic raw material.

"Then it's down to the playfulness and the skill of the cider maker to give it this amazing range and portfolio of different types of cider."

An abundance of apples

One of those producers is Greg MacNeice of MacIvors, based at Ardress.

He believes the annual festival is crucial for the continued development of the area's cider industry.

"I'd say there are somewhere between 4,000 and 5,000 acres of apple orchards in Armagh," he says.

"There is a lot of diversity there in terms of small mixed farms who have apples as part of their mix, then larger farms that have really chosen to go with only apples.

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Greg MacNeice says the festival is important for apple growers and cider makers

"The festival is something that has been building over the years and has been gaining popularity.

"It is a pedestal that as a grower and cider maker we can stand upon and shout about the products that we make.

"So it's really important and every year more people are coming to sample the cider and eat the food."

Five miles away on the outskirts of Portadown, Kathleen McKeever of Long Meadow Cider has been preparing not just for the festival but for the upcoming harvest.

"The trees are absolutely laden with apples and that is because we had very little frost at the end of April and the beginning of May so we have an abundance," she says.

"It really is starting to look like apple picking season - we hope to be able to start early next week.

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With apple picking season on the horizon, apple bins are lining orchards up and down the county

"If you have a lovely mixture of heat and sun and a wee bit of rain it really does make a difference.

"The orchard is already lined out with our apple bins.

"We need to get fully prepared for our pickers coming in so that when they arrive on the farm they are good to go."

What they pick will then be transformed into juices, ciders and vinegars.

The juices can be turned around in days but it will be up to three months before the earliest batches of fresh cider are bottled.

Plenty of time to prepare for next year's festival.

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