World Cup 2022: Welsh ex-pats welcome football fans

Wales flag

Wales' flag has been beamed on to buildings along with those of the other competing nations - and has struck a chord with locals

By Chris Wood
BBC News in Qatar

About 1,200 Wales fans have flown to Qatar from Cardiff on Sunday, the eve of their nation's first appearance at the World Cup finals in 64 years.

The five flights left a chilly Welsh November for temperatures of 30C (86F).

But while the weather may be alien, they will find familiarity, according to ex-pats who have made their home in the Middle East state.

In total, more than 2,500 Wales fans are expected to be at Monday's opening match against the USA.

Those not flying from Cardiff are arriving from other airports over the weekend or basing themselves in Dubai.

They will be welcomed by hundreds of ex-pats, many of them as passionately loyal to their adopted country as they are to their homeland in the face of criticism of the host nation in the lead-up to the tournament.

'I didn't sleep much last night'

Qatar here we come: Lauren and Kerrin McNie at Cardiff Airport

At Cardiff Airport excited fans swarmed about in red tops and bucket hats, with chants and good-natured banter filling the air.

Lauren McNie, flying out with her sister Kerrin, said: "I didn't sleep much last night, I just want to get out there now.

"We've got conditional tickets to the final, so we are fairly optimistic."

'We are gonna try and win it, aren't we?'

Gareth O'Shea, pictured with sons Rhys and Morgan, says it's been a long time coming

Gareth O'Shea, travelling with his sons Rhys and Morgan, said: "I'm excited to be here, that's the main thing.

"It's been a long time coming, it was a hard qualifying campaign but we are here.

"I recognise there are issues with the country but we'll go, we'll make the most of it and we'll spread the message from our part of the world."

His son Rhys said: "We're not just here to take part. We are gonna try and win it, aren't we?"

Morgan said: "Anything can happen. It's the World Cup, isn't it?"

'No-one in the group to fear'

England? "I don't think we should be afraid of them at all," says Isaac

Also in the departure lounge was Isaac: "It's crazy, I can't believe Wales are at the World Cup, I'm so excited," he said.

"I reckon we'll get out of the group. I don't think there is anyone in the group we should fear.

"Everyone says England, but they are rubbish. You saw them in the Nations League? They could pick up barely any points.

"I don't think we should be afraid of them at all."

There are five flights from Cardiff Airport to Doha on Sunday

With less than 15% of the three million population born in Qatar, the ex-pats describe it as a cosmopolitan place they have watched grow and change.

The price and availability of alcohol has been much publicised but the experiences of sports teacher Callan Bowden might help allay many fears.

"I have been here eight years. I didn't know what to expect at first, but I was out four times in my first week," he said.

Stadium alcohol ban

He suggested that anyone who is more adventurous can explore the desert, but those that want to drink will be able to find somewhere.

With lots of offers on, such as two-for-one and 50% discounts, he said it can be cheaper than London, or even his home city of Cardiff, if people look around.

A stadium alcohol ban was announced just two days before the start of the tournament, but he believes this could potentially cause more of a headache for organisers than fans.

A giant poster of Gareth Bale on the side of a building can be seen around Doha

"It may spoil the experience for some, but beer will still be easy enough to get around other places," he added.

"It may cause more of a rush to get out to the stadium, with fans staying in the fan zones and pubs longer. It could spell trouble with them getting into the stadium late."

While Callan is looking forward to meeting other Wales supporters, he encountered what he described as "rent-a-fans" when trying to catch a glimpse of the national team arriving last week.

Callan Bowden

Callan was part of a welcoming committee to greet the players - but another group got there first

The tournament's supreme organising committee has denied using flag-waving welcoming parties for sides, but he said: "About six of us went to watch the team arrive at about 3am, and we noticed a group of fans with Welsh flags a lot closer than us that we weren't allowed to get near to.

"At the end, they got into an Uber and told me they were volunteers. It was annoying as there was only six of us, so they could have let us get a bit closer."

Pam Pearce, grandchildren Harry, seven, and Joshua, four, and daughter Kathryn Witchalls all love living in Qatar

While World Cup banners, giant posters and neon signs now dominate the capital, the build-up has been a long one.

Pam Pearce, 59, from Wrexham, was in the venue 12 years ago where it was announced Qatar had been successful in its bid to host the tournament.

"We've seen it all come together. There's been a lot of negativity globally but this is a wonderful place. I wouldn't have stayed here 12 years otherwise," she said.

Robbie Williams tickets

While much has been made about the price of alcohol, she points out many things will be free for visitors - including public transport, entry to souks and a new beach that's been created.

Her daughter Kathryn Witchalls, 36, sees other benefits for fans, adding: "There are so many concerts happening. I have Robbie Williams tickets. You wouldn't be able to get them if he was performing back home."

It won't just be the Wales football team on display for the world to see - but the supporters' favourite bucket hat too

Pam's husband Jonathan said it was right to focus on the various issues and change the country for the better, but argued that criticism of Qatar is also criticism of the millions from around the world who have made their home here, including a large number from the UK.

"We celebrated with the country, the residents and Qataris when it (the World Cup) was awarded. We are part of it," he added.

Garin Rees, 31, also admitted there was work to do overall, but added: "I think Welsh people will find a lot to connect with Qataris over.

"The food: lamb is important in both places, it's a small country just like Wales, Welsh people are known for being friendly and Qataris are incredibly so."

Garin Rees, with his wife Ayesha, thinks Qatar is a great base from which to explore the world

Garin left Aberdare, Rhondda Cynon Taf, in 2017 in search of adventure and to see the world, and met his wife Ayesha, 31, whom he works with at an international school.

The couple have been teaching their pupils about Wales, and aspects of the culture have struck a chord - especially the mythical beast with which the country is associated.

"We had biscuits with the flags of the competing nations on them and they were all saying 'I want Wales'," added Ayesha.

"The dragon and flag are so prominent and distinctive, it sticks out and the children have all been so excited about seeing it around Doha."

Mike Murphy, with girlfriend Maeva, has seen huge changes in the country, including the Souk Waqif area behind him

Mike Murphy, 62, from Bridgend, lived in Qatar 15 years ago and after leaving, returned two years ago, saying: "Souk Waqif (a traditional market where fans will congregate) didn't exist.

"It was very old and going to be knocked down before they decided at the last minute it was a nice place to renovate.

"The roads were also a mess back then."

He said the place had been transformed and thinks fans will have a fantastic experience, adding: "There's been all sorts of stupid rumours: someone said we aren't allowed to wear shorts.

"Most of us obviously didn't get the memo."

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