Surfers take on giant waves as storm hits California

The world's best big wave surfers are descending on California to catch the biggest storm swells the US West Coast has seen in years.

Surfers from Brazil, France and Portugal have arrived at Mavericks, a famous wave south of San Francisco, to ride the giant walls of water.

Waves up to 70ft (21 meters) have been ridden, as even larger waves pass by.

Officials have warned onlookers to stay away from the shore after people were injured by huge rogue waves.

Chris Cuvelier, who runs the Maverick Surf Awards competition and can see the rolling swells from his kitchen, told BBC News on Friday that "people have been getting on flights all over the world" to surf the legendary spot this week.

Professional surfers, "especially people that surf Mavericks, they're big wave surfers and many of them are travelling around the globe to go catch big waves", he says.

Hunter Murison seen surfing Mavericks on Thursday

Famous pros like Kai Lenny, Andrew Cotton, and Lucas Chumbo have all appeared at Mavericks recently - some of them vying to win the prize money on offer from the Maverick Awards.

Filming the ride of their lives in this swell means they can enter into the digital competition for a chance at the as-yet unannounced 2024 prize pool.

JoJo Roper, a San Diego-based pro surfer, loaded up his car after Christmas once he saw the "gigantic" swell in the forecast.

It was the biggest since at least 2007, he says, telling BBC News "it's been a long time since it's been that kind of a day".

Mr Roper, 33, said he was one of the only Californian surfers out there on Thursday, riding the 60-70ft waves.

His friend flew from Hawaii to tow him into the waves on a jet ski.

"It's nice to have it in our territory, and take advantage of some waves close to home rather than travelling to Portugal or where all these other guys come from to chase their waves," he told BBC News.

"They're coming to chase our waves. It's pretty cool. It all comes full circle."

Speaking on Friday, he called Thursday "one of the best days in my lifetime for sure".

On his third wave of the day, he fired into the barrel of a massive collapsing wall of water.

"It was an honour. And just to get barrelled is a whole other realm of victory," he says with a triumphant laugh.

"So I'm pretty happy about it."

Onlookers climbed the cliffs near Half Moon Bay on Thursday to get a glimpse of Mavericks

Forecasters have issued warnings of more danger ahead after a rogue wave swept pedestrians off their feet and swamped a hotel in Ventura.

The National Weather Service (NWS) warned of "extremely dangerous conditions."

"Powerful waves and life-threatening rip currents pose an exceptional risk of ocean drowning and damage to coastal structures."

The NWS said there is "an increased risk for ocean drowning" due to rip currents.

More swells are in the forecast for Mavericks, located near the city of Half Moon Bay.

But only the world's top professionals should consider getting into the ocean during this El Niño-driven weather event.

"Mavericks is kind of the biggest of the big here on the West Coast," Mr Cuvelier said. "But I don't think any beginner or even intermediate surfers should really be surfing anywhere in California (in these conditions)."

• What is El Niño and how does it change the weather?