Ultra-Trail Snowdonia: The ultra test in the Welsh mountains

Ultra-Trail Snowdonia-Eryri: 'I don't know if I can finish a race like this'

By Lowri Morgan
for BBC Sport Wales

There are those who like mountains and those who love scaling them. But for some there is nothing better than racing to the peaks and back down again in a test of physical and mental stamina.

That will be the focus as some of the world's leading endurance athletes gather in Eryri, also known as Snowdonia, for the coming weekend's adventures and endeavours.

The Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB) World Series arrives in north Wales for one of the toughest ultra-trail events in the calendar, the Ultra-Trail Snowdonia (UTS).

Ultrarunning has soared in popularity, with a report in 2021 showing a 345% increase in participation globally over the past 10 years and thousands of events taking place annually.

This weekend's events will see 2,851 runners from 64 nationalities, including some of the world's best mountain and trail runners, attempt the notoriously difficult four races which start and finish at the National Slate Museum in Padarn Country Park, Llanberis.

The UTS 100-mile race is off first on Friday and is the ultimate grand-tour of the mountains of Eryri National Park.

It has an accumulated ascent of 9,500 metres, higher than Everest at 8,800m. Just as challenging will be the UTS 100K, UTS 50K and Eryri 25K, all starting on Saturday.

Predominantly on technical mountain trails, competitors will explore Snowdonia's most scenic valleys, rugged peaks and epic landscapes, which make these race routes among the world's most beautiful and toughest running events in the world.

There will be a strong turnout of elite competitors in each event, as determined by the UTMB rankings index. Among the favourites in the 100-mile race is Nicky Spinks, one of the country's most respected ultra-runners.

During her outstanding 18 years in the sport, the 55-year-old holds multiple 100 mile+ records. In 2019 she was one of the last women standing at the testing Barkley Marathons. Eryri is one of her favourite places to run.

"This year, I've made it a priority to race the UTS 100 miler. I think racing 100 miles in Wales is going to be especially difficult and in one of the toughest environments in Europe," she said.

"There'll be no fast running because there's so much elevation on the route. I've never raced a 100 miler in the UK so the challenge is going to be very different to what I've experienced before.

"It's great to show the world what Wales and the UK has to offer the trail and ultra-running global community."

Female runners are making waves in ultra running. Every year, more and more women are taking on the challenge with many, like Spinks, winning races outright.

But the start lists remain male dominated with the female field often making up fewer than 15% of competitors, while the UTS has seen a rise from 15% to 21% in female participation for 2023.

"There are so many young brilliant female athletes coming through now," adds Spinks, "but I'd like to think, even though I'm not at the top of the game any more, I can inspire more women, especially the older women to start trail running and keep going.

"I started running in my 30s so you can still come into this world late and do well."

Over recent years the demand for UTMB entry has continued to grow, prompting organisers to announce in 2021 a UTMB World Series with a new entry procedure including a lottery system and qualification via new international events.

The UTS is now among the events that can lead to the UTMB World Series Finals in Chamonix and race finishers will also gain running stones for entry to the World Series Finals' ballot.

Having had success in endurance events, Asics elite runner and former Great Britain road marathon athlete Holly Stables knows only too well the appeal of the racing in Chamonix.

"The UTMB for most ultra, trail and mountain runners, is the race everyone has heard of," said Stables.

"It's the race everyone wants to do, like the London Marathon. It's a golden race that holds a certain appeal because people come from all around the world to Chamonix to watch or race against the greatest ultra-trail runners in the world."

But not everyone is motivated by only collecting running stones.

'It was so difficult'

Simon Bromham only started running in 2017 after being inspired watching the Cardiff Half Marathon. Since then ultra endurance events have become an integral part of his life.

He is returning to Llanberis two years after being timed-out of the UTS 100K at 75km.

"In 2021, I completely underestimated the UTS 100K - it was so difficult," said Bromham. "The near vertical climbs and descents made it nearly impossible to move at pace. But I'm going back and this time, I am going to finish it.

"When you reach the top of the mountain, look down and see what you've climbed, it's a wonderful feeling. It's awe-inspiring, dramatic with a certain danger belonging to it."

Ultra-trail runner Simbarashe Mugomba is a trustee of Black Trail Runners (BTR) - a community and campaigning group that aims to encourage more people of colour to experience the mental therapy of running on the trails.

"I want to do the UTS in support of Black Trail Runners' efforts to promote inclusivity within trail running and the outdoors," said Mugomba.

"In the UK, less than 0.7% of trail event participants are black or black-mixed, despite making up 4.5% of the population. When I go to a race, I find I'm the only black person there or I know all the other black runners.

"This is now changing with the work we're doing with BTR. You cannot be what you cannot see, so it's important for me to be on the trails racing the UTS… and to collect the stones!"