Has a year of civilian rule changed Burma?

It is less than a year since a government led by civilians, but still backed by the military, came to power in Burma.

But those months have seen change in the country - some media restrictions have been lifted, trades unions have been legalised, some political prisoners have been released and the government has begun talking to Aung San Suu Kyi.

BBC's Fergal Keane reports from a township near Rangoon.